Preserving tradition: Baburam Ghatani’s legacy of woodcraft in Bhaktapur (video)

KATHMANDU: Baburam Ghatani from Thulo Dhading VDC in Sindhupalchok continues the ancestral art of woodcraft, a profession passed down through generations.

His father and grandfather were also skilled in this craft, and Baburam began learning from his father at an early age. Now, he has completed 26 years in this profession.

In the early days, Ghatani crafted wooden masks in his village and transported them to Kathmandu for sale. The demand for masks was high back then, but logistical challenges made the work difficult.

“We had to pay for vehicle charges ourselves, pay taxes to the government, and even give money to the police. When transporting goods from the village, we often faced police seizures, which caused immense stress,” he recalls.

Faced with these challenges, Ghatani decided to move to Kathmandu and work from there. He convinced his fellow craftsmen to join him, and four others followed him to Bhaktapur.

Since then, they have rented an old shop in Bhaktapur, where they create masks of Bhairav, Ganesh, Buddha, Shiva, and more. Their workday stretches from 6 AM to 7 or 8 PM, earning them between Rs 1,000 to 1,500 per day.

It has now been 12 years since they relocated to Bhaktapur. Ghatani sources wood from local pipal trees in Bhaktapur, making it easier to transport materials.

He happily notes that working from Bhaktapur has eliminated police hassles and made mask production and sales more convenient.

“We are from the same village. Because of transportation issues, we planned to rent a shop in Kathmandu, stay here, and work together,” Ghatani explains.

The Mask-Making Process

According to Ghatani, the process starts by splitting a wooden log in half. The basic shape is then carved out from one half. The mask is shaped and left to dry in the sun for at least a week, sometimes up to 12 days. After drying, the mask is burned using gas, then sanded to remove blemishes. Cracks are filled with putty, and finally, colors and decorations are applied to complete the mask.

Sourcing the Wood

Ghatani uses pipal wood, readily available in Bhaktapur. This specific type of wood is ideal for mask-making due to its texture and durability.

Selling the Masks

Ghatani and his colleagues sell their masks at various tourist shops in Thamel, Kathmandu. Sometimes, contractors purchase masks in bulk, collecting orders of 1,000 to 1,200 pieces.

“We get calls mainly from Thamel’s tourist shops. Contractors sometimes buy in bulk, but small orders come from regular shops,” he says.

The masks are sold in markets across Kathmandu, Pokhara, Darjeeling, and Chitwan.

Earnings and Market Demand

A well-designed mask, about 30-35 inches in size, can fetch between Rs 10,000 to 15,000, taking a week to 10 days to complete. However, the income is inconsistent.

“Some months we sell 50 to 60 pieces; other months, it can be 200 or 300 pieces. Sometimes we don’t sell anything for months and have to store the masks,” he says.

For simpler masks, Ghatani can produce five to six pieces a day, earning about Rs 1,000 to 1,500 daily. Prices depend on the mask’s size and design, with small 2-inch Ganesh masks priced at Rs 200.

Preserving the Craft

Despite challenges, Ghatani believes the craft is not at risk of extinction. Many people in Thulo Dhading VDC are engaged in this profession.

“In almost every household, there are one or two people involved in this craft,” he notes.

Frustration with the System

However, Ghatani is not entirely satisfied. He complains that the government prioritizes large industries over small craftsmen. Dealers often sell a mask for Rs 1,500 but hesitate to pay artisans even Rs 300.

“We work from 6 AM to 7 or 8 PM to earn just a thousand rupees. We’re not happy, but we’re compelled to continue. We have to support our children,” he laments.

The market for masks has also declined compared to the past.

Advice for Aspiring Craftsmen

Ghatani encourages unemployed youths to learn the craft.

“You can earn Rs 30,000 to 35,000 a month without having to travel or endure harsh weather. There’s no need to worry about joblessness,” he says.

He invites interested youths to join him for training, with the vision of establishing a larger workshop together.

“You might not earn Rs 5,000 or 10,000 a day, but you can definitely earn Rs 1,200 to 1,500,” he assures.

Plea to the Government

Ghatani urges the government to simplify the transportation of wood. Even when legally purchasing trees, police and forest officials create obstacles.

“We cut and transport wood with great effort, yet we face frequent seizures by police. It would be much easier if they didn’t interfere,” he says.

He also calls for the formal registration of the mask-making profession and requests financial support to help unemployed youths enter this trade.

Impact of COVID-19

The pandemic severely impacted their livelihood. During the lockdown, Ghatani returned to his village, fearing the craft was doomed.

“At that time, we thought this profession wouldn’t survive. But now, we are happy to see it continue,” he says.

Future Plans

Despite his desire to expand, Ghatani cites a lack of capital as a major barrier.

“Neither the government nor anyone else invests in us. A kilogram of wood costs around Rs 350 to 400, and making a mask takes an entire day. We sell it for NPR 1,500,” he explains.

Expanding the craft would require substantial effort and investment, which remains out of reach for now. Nevertheless, Ghatani continues to persevere, preserving this traditional art form against the odds.

Video:

-Tenzing Dolma Tamang