Mount Everest climbing affected due to adverse weather conditions

KATHMANDU: The spring climbing season for Mount Everest and other Himalayan peaks continues, but adverse weather has significantly impacted the progress of expeditions.

According to the Department of Tourism, the ascent of Everest, as well as other peaks such as Kanchenjunga, has been affected due to severe winds.

Himal Gautam, the director of the Department of Tourism, stated, “Reports have come in that the ascent of Mount Everest is not possible today due to strong winds.” Many climbers who were preparing for their ascent are now returning to safer camps. Climbers with sufficient oxygen supplies are waiting in the second and third camps, hoping for more favorable weather.

According to Pasang Bhotek, a representative at the Department’s temporary field office at the Everest Base Camp, the recent bad weather has hindered climbing attempts.

As a result, the planned summit attempts for May 15 have been canceled, and the May 14 expeditions are also likely to be called off. Bhotek mentioned that climbers scheduled to reach the summit on that date have already begun descending toward the Base Camp.

He further stated, “Due to the weather conditions, no ascents are possible today. Climbers who reached the fourth camp are expected to return to the Base Camp by tomorrow, Tuesday.”

Due to the ongoing adverse conditions, no Everest summits are expected in the next three to four days. If the weather improves, expeditions might resume from May 18.

According to a managing expedition company, Etke Expeditions, May 11–14 was expected to see the highest number of climbers reaching the summit, with a summit window from May 12–15.

Snowfall is expected around May 16 and 17, further complicating the situation. However, the weather has deteriorated earlier than expected, halting climbs.

As of now, only four teams have reached the summit with fixed ropes. Additionally, the adverse weather has also affected expeditions on Kanchenjunga, another high-altitude peak.

Some successful ascents have been reported, including that of Dawa Phunjo Sherpa and Fursang Sherpa, who reached Everest’s summit on May 10.

British climber Mitchell Leonard Dakre also reached the summit on May 11, along with three Sherpas from Nepal—Gyaltse Sherpa, Phuri Sherpa, and Ang Pemba Sherpa—and Ecuadorian climber Patricio Arevalo.

Climbers are currently waiting at the second and third camps for an opportunity to proceed, as weather conditions remain unstable.

During this season, five Nepali climbers, three Chinese climbers, and one Kyrgyz climber have successfully summited Makalu.

The spring climbing season for Everest began on May 9, with a team from Etke Expeditions marking the opening of the summit route on April 28 by fixing ropes to the summit.

This year, a total of 1,127 climbers—240 women and 887 men—have obtained permits to climb 26 peaks, including Everest. The majority of climbers, 456 in total (84 women and 372 men), are attempting to summit Everest.