Kami Rita set to break his own record with 31st everest ascent

KATHMANDU: Climbing Mount Everest, the world’s highest peak, is not just an adventure—it’s a perilous and sensitive journey.

Navigating treacherous icefalls and scaling rocky ridges to reach the summit requires immense courage and endurance.

Doing it once is a feat; doing it 30 times is extraordinary. But for world-renowned record-holder Kami Rita Sherpa, climbing Everest has become as routine as drawing water from a well.

This spring season, Kami Rita is preparing to scale Everest for a record-breaking 31st time, surpassing his own world record of 30 ascents set in 2024.

He had previously broken his 2023 record of 28 climbs, also held in his name.

The legendary climber is heading for the summit in a few days, accompanied by a team from the Indian Army under Seven Summit Treks Pvt. Ltd.

“I’m leaving in a day or two for my 31st Everest ascent,” Kami Rita said. “How many times I climb depends on the weather and conditions on the mountain.” He emphasized that his motivation is not to break records, but to carry out his profession—mountain guiding.

Kami Rita, who hails from Thame in Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality, Solukhumbu, is a seasoned mountaineer and expedition leader.

Now 55, he first summited Everest on May 13, 1994, and holds the record for the most ascents of mountains over 8,000 meters. In 2023, fellow Sherpa Pasang Dawa from Solukhumbu also made headlines with 28 Everest ascents.

Despite his personal milestones, Kami Rita has expressed concern over the melting glaciers and changing landscape of Everest due to climate change. “No one has broken my record, but nature is breaking its own record every season. The mountain’s appearance is changing drastically. I witness a new challenge every time, and it saddens me,” he shared.

He believes that the state must pay attention to the social security of climbers, especially those who risk their lives season after season. He also stressed the need for proper budgeting and manpower to manage mountain waste.

Seven Summit Treks Chairman Mingma Sherpa expressed pride in Kami Rita’s upcoming climb, saying, “This record is a national pride, not just a personal or company achievement.”

Everest is known for its high risk—over 400 climbers have lost their lives during expeditions. Mingma Sherpa insists the government should prioritize climbers’ welfare.

Shiva Bahadur Sapkota, General Secretary of the Mountaineering Association, said this year’s climbing season is expected to be record-setting and filled with enthusiasm. Several climbers, including Kami Rita, are aiming to establish new records.

Following the sixth amendment to the Mountaineering Regulation 2081, climbers must now obtain official permission for record attempts.

This has led to a surge in climbers registering for expeditions. As of Wednesday, the Department of Tourism reported that 311 climbers (58 women and 253 men in 30 teams) have received permission to climb Everest this season.

These permits have generated a total of NPR 526.4 million in royalties, with Rs 460 million coming from Everest alone.

Department Director Liladhar Awasthi said that 74 expedition teams have received permits to climb 21 peaks this season. The Khumbu Icefall route—one of Everest’s most challenging sections—has already been constructed.

Icefall doctors have completed route fixing through the Khumbu Icefall, and a team of skilled Sherpas will soon fix ropes from Camp II to the summit.

The Everest Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) is responsible for route construction from Base Camp to Camp II, while the Expedition Operators Association handles rope fixing from Camp II to the summit. The association has assigned Eight K Expeditions to manage rope fixing this season.

Everest’s climbing legacy dates back to May 29, 1953, when Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary made the historic first ascent. According to the Department of Tourism’s publication Mountaineering in Nepal: Facts and Figures 2023, a total of 7,626 climbers had successfully reached the summit of Everest up to 2023. The combined total for 2023 and 2024 is expected to surpass 8,000 successful summits.

New milestones are continuously being set. In the previous season, Phunjo Jhangmu Lama from Gorkha climbed Everest in under 15 hours, setting a world record.

Likewise, photojournalist and climber Purnima Shrestha became the first woman to summit Everest three times in a single season, earning another global record.

To attempt a record, climbers must submit applications to the Department of Tourism and obtain official approval.

Everest remains a symbol of courage, endurance, and global recognition—and climbers like Kami Rita Sherpa continue to inspire the world with their unmatched achievements.