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Ilam: Nepal’s queen of hills beckons tourists with tea gardens & horse rides

Urgen Lama’s journey from Buddhist painting to thriving horse-riding services highlights Kanyam's growing appeal as a scenic and cultural haven.

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KATHMANDU: Ilam, renowned for its breathtaking natural beauty, stands as one of Nepal’s finest tourist destinations.

Known as the “Queen of Hills,” this district attracts thousands of visitors annually, with its lush tea gardens being a prime attraction.

In recent years, alongside the hotel industry, horse-riding services have been flourishing in Ilam. Urgen Lama of Kanyam-7 is a notable figure in this industry, who has been offering horse rides to tourists visiting the tea gardens for the past seven years.

Initially, Lama practiced Buddhist painting, known as Khyiba, which provided him with a decent income to support his wife and son.

However, as he aged, he developed eyesight issues and hypertension, prompting him to switch to the horse-riding business.

“Due to my health issues, I transitioned to this business,” Lama shared. “Now, I get exercise, and my blood pressure is under control.”

Besides running his horse-riding business, Lama cultivates tea on 10 ropanis of land and owns a shop near Kanyam. He finds great joy in guiding tourists on horseback through the scenic tea gardens, a task he says brings more satisfaction than his previous professions.

Lama is a member of the local Horse-Riding Business Association, which comprises 39 horse-riding entrepreneurs. Each member owns their horses, taking full responsibility for their feed, care, and medical treatment.

“Horses, like humans, suffer from various ailments such as colic, respiratory issues, and diarrhea,” Lama explained, recalling the loss of one of his horses to respiratory disease.

The association ensures medical expenses for any accidents involving horses or tourists, covering up to Rs 500,000–1,000,000. Horse rides are scheduled in shifts—morning and afternoon—with each member taking turns every three days.

The charges for horse rides vary depending on the distance. A short photo session on horseback costs Rs 50, while a brief round in the tea garden is priced at Rs 300. Touring the entire garden can cost between Rs 1,500 to 2,500.

“Depending on the distance, the charges differ,” Lama said. “A simple photo session costs Rs 50, and a short round costs Rs 300, while a full tour ranges up to Rs 2,500.”

Lama shared that his involvement in this business has eliminated the need to seek work abroad. His daily earnings fluctuate between Rs 300 and Rs 2,500, which are pooled into a common account and equally distributed among the members.

He also noted that the association pays Rs 80 per horse to the local municipality daily. Despite the challenges of the business, including grooming and feeding the horses—each consuming 4 kg of feed daily—Lama considers it worthwhile.

Looking ahead, Lama envisions opening a small homestay in Kanyam to offer affordable accommodation and meals to tourists while promoting Ilam’s charm.

Lama encourages all visitors to experience horse riding when they visit Kanyam. “It’s not just for the wealthy. Everyone should try it, even if it’s just a short ride for Rs 50 or 300. The experience is worth it,” he emphasized.

-Tenzing Dolma Tamang