It’s like buying death by loaned cash: Purnima Shrestha

TERHATHUM: OCT. 7 – Photojournalist Purnima Shrestha’s identity has now changed as a mountain climber. Not only that, she has now become the first Annapurna and the first Nepali woman to climb Dhaulagiri. She successfully climbed Dhaulagiri on Oct. 1.

Purnima has successfully climbed Manaslu, Annapurna I and Ama Dablam Mountain, also known as Killer Mountain, along with the highest peak, Mount Everest. She succeeded to climb Dhaulagiri in her second attempt and she managed to climb other mountains at once.

Interview with Prakash Dhakal/Makalu Khabar:

You were doing photojournalism, how did you imagine climbing the mountain?

I really don’t look like a mountaineer. If someone says that my friend is a mountaineer, they would say how such a person could climb. There is no ‘looks’ to climb the mountain, not even my profession. Grandparents has never touched the snow. You have to be able to climb the mountain mentally, physically and financially. The same amount of money is spent. I am from a normal family. Can’t explain about a mountain, who will sponsor? The first time I climbed Manaslu, I had no experience. When I reached Dhaulagiri, I became financially weak. I have successfully climbed only by willpower. I don’t have a lot of money.

Please tell, what’s the story of climbing

When you go climbing a mountain, you don’t know which step is the last and which is the last breath. When I go climbing the mountain, I feel like coming back again and I pay all the money I took from someone. But there is no need to worry about dying after reaching the target. Death has never been an obstacle, I am happy. Sometimes I think that I came here to die by seeking a loan. The borrower also asks me to repay the loan. At that time, I feel that I have paid for my own death. Even so, I don’t want to back down. Even if it is difficult, I want to reach the top. It is impossible to walk five steps in the mountains and stop. I have climbed the mountain counting every step. The harder you work, the more success you will have. Some mountains I never thought possible. After returning from the mountain, I feel like I have given myself a surprise. I had neither money nor experience. No one has helped. But‚ I persevered and succeeded.

Don’t be scared sometimes? Don’t ask yourself what I’m doing.

When I fail, I lose a lot, I cried many times. This time too, it seemed that it could not be done. But luckily I succeeded. Ordinary people go to the mountains by borrowing loans, but when they fail, they become frustrated. This time too I cried for half an hour. Everyone has Everest in their life. It is difficult to climb. Mountains are energy for me. After climbing the mountain, nothing seems impossible. Feeling strong.

Did you bring more frustration than enthusiasm?

Enthusiasm happens many times. This time I had no money. I am looking for a loan. It would have been very stressful if it had not been successful. Even if successful, Sherpa and the company are worried about how to pay. But I pay. I have age, I have skill in hand.

How much does it cost to climb a mountain?

It costs at least Rs 1.5 to 2 million. For a normal family like ours, that is an expensive expense.

The Dhaulagiri climb failed the previous time as well, this time too it was likely to fail. What caused it?

The main thing is the weather. Collective work is the biggest thing. Unlike other mountains, Dhaulagiri. This is a very difficult mountain. I have never seen Dhaulagiri well. As usual, the snow is falling, the nearby visuals are not visible. If you go from one camp to another, the road will deteriorate immediately. Many times even the fixing team could not make way. The helicopter doesn’t come for 50 days.

How can there be a rescue if something happens? This is very risky.

After climbing Dhaulagiri and Annapurna even more than Everest, it seems to be successful. Everyone else can go to Mt. Everest, but they can’t in these mountains. After climbing Dhaulagiri, I am happy.

Did you get government support?

I had received help before, but not this time. The state government gave Rs.8 lakhs. Annapurna Village Municipality also has support.

What are your current plans for mountaineering?

Now, there are plans to climb all the mountains above 8,000 meters in Nepal. I am thinking of climbing Kanchenjunga, Lhotse and Makalu in the same season. But there is a financial problem. Physically I am ready. Fatigue is not eliminated. After resting, I start preparing. I don’t like mountains. I am ready to go to all the mountains.

Which season was suitable for climbing Dhaulagiri?

I had never been to Spring before. Not possible. This season I succeed. It was easy to climb this season. At that time there was a lot of wind. The fear of avalanches will be the same. There was less snow this season.

Any suggestions to the government?

Even the government does not know many things. I became a media person, I also had my own place. There is no way to climb Annapurna. I told the government that there was no way. Nobody knows anything. I have told the Tourism Board that there is no accommodation in many places. Most climbers go by helicopter. From there they bring food, water, and heavy loads. And what is the benefit to the state? Did something happen just because there is a mountain? Not at all. The state has not taken any initiative. The government does not even know which mountain falls where. There was no way to understand the situation there.